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Inside The High-Tech Farm Growing Kale In An Old Paintball Arena
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NEWARK,
New Jersey — David Rosenberg is trying to build an agricultural empire
out of an old paintball arena in a blighted urban neighborhood about 45
minutes outside Manhattan. Needless to say, Rosenberg, the chief
executive of Aerofarms, an indoor farming startup growing organic leafy
greens without sunlight or soil, has his work cut out for him. But so far, the pieces seem to be falling into place. Though limited, the current growing
operation produces enough kale, watercress, arugula and other leafy
greens to feed a few restaurants and ShopRite supermarkets in the area.
Next month, the 12-year-old company is set to open its new
70,000-square-foot headquarters, just two blocks away. That project,
which broke ground only two months ago, is transforming a former steel mill into the world’s largest indoor vertical farm. “Our mission is to build farms in
cities all over the world,” Rosenberg recently told The Huffington Post.
“We are very much building the infrastructure not to build one, two or
three farms but to build 20, 30 or 50 farms.”
Indoors farming has long been touted as a way to address two major
problems. The first is macro-level and lofty: How will we, the Earth’s
7.4 billion (and counting) humans, go about feeding ourselves in a
changing world? The second is more immediate: How do you get fresh,
healthy produce to people in urban food deserts, where diet-related
conditions like diabetes and obesity run rampant? The answers to those questions could
be a gold mine. By 2050, the world’s population is projected to rise to
between 9 billion and 10 billion people. Those numbers, coupled with
income growth across the world, could result in more than a 70 percent
increase in demand for food by that year, according to a report
by the World Bank. Making matters worse, the unpredictable and
increasingly extreme weather, droughts and flooding that come of climate
change are expected to grow more intense in the coming decades, as
greenhouse gas emissions continue to warm the planet.
Alexander C. Kaufman/The Huffington Post
Heads of red romaine lettuce are seen in their final stage of growth at Aerofarms’ growing facility in Newark.
In places where extreme
weather, flooding and desertification threaten agriculture — think
sub-Saharan Africa, the Middle East and Southeast Asia — farming
techniques like those used by Aerofarms could take off.
“You have to look around the world and find out whose food supply is
most threatened by climate change — it’s about who really needs it,
versus who could probably survive at least another 100 years without
urban agriculture dominating the landscape,” said Dickson Despommier, an
emeritus professor of microbiology at Columbia University who hosts a podcast
on indoor farming. “For the most part, farmers are unable to move their
farms when the climate changes to the point where they can no longer
grow what they were growing before.”
Rosenberg said there is a “50 percent chance” the company will announce its first overseas project by the middle of next year.
To be sure, Aerofarms is no panacea. After 12 years at it, the
company seems to have created a solid model for growing nutrient-rich
leafy greens in urban spaces. But it’s too small-scale to grow large
cash crops like soybeans, corn and wheat — all of which are among the
more environmentally taxing
food sources. Plus, there are apparent obstacles to growing fruits and
tubers. Consider this calculation that Stan Cox, a senior scientist at
the nonprofit research group the Land Institute, offered in an essay for Alternet in February:
Based on figures in a 2013 paper
published by indoor plant-growth expert Toyoki Kozai of Japan’s Chiba
University and on the assumption of efficient LED lighting, I estimate
that plants like potato or tomato that produce a fleshy food product
require about 1,200 kilowatt-hours of electricity for each kilogram of
edible tissue they produce, not counting the water stored in the food.
That requirement approximates the annual electricity consumption of
the average American home refrigerator — and that’s a big energy bill to
produce just two and a quarter pounds of food dry matter. This kind of
thing could not be scaled up very far.
Ultimately, the world’s looming agricultural crisis is going to
require a patchwork of solutions. The sheer fact that they are indoors,
protected from even the most volatile environments, gives farming units
like Aerofarms’ serious potential in the long term. But in the short
term, can this method provide a better alternative to greens harvested
in the so-called “salad bowl of America” — that is, in Northern
California, where most of the country’s arugula, kale and lettuce is
grown? Pared down to its bare essentials,
Aerofarms operates on a straightforward aeroponic design, using mist and
carefully regulated LED lighting to grow plants without soil or another
substrate. Seeds are sown into reusable growing cloths, each made from
about 24 recycled plastic bottles, that are then stretched over
tray-like frames. After the seeds germinate, the contraption is inserted
into one end of a two-story growing tower, where the roots are
regularly misted with water infused with microbes and other nutrients
the plants would normally suck from the dirt around their roots. The
plants then embark on an assembly line of photosynthesis, traveling down
the rows of the growing tower over the course of two weeks. When they
emerge on the other end, each tray is bursting with full-size edible
greens.
Aerofarms
Aeroponics is just one form of indoor farming.
But
Aerofarms’ produce isn’t like the stuff that’s sold in most stores
after being plucked from fields in California. (For one things, the
company only grows about half a dozen different crops, at least for
now.) Aerofarms’ greens are grown to emphasize specific flavors and
textures. The mizuna, for instance, has a mustardy kick. Aerofarms grew
it that way. The baby kale is almost nutty. There was no bitter chemical
residue to clean off before eating. “We grow without pesticides,
herbicides, fungicides or GMOs — we just give the plant what it wants at
the root structure,” Rosenberg said. “They don’t need nutrients at the
leaves, so there’s nothing to wash off.” With its aeroponic technology,
Aerofarms is betting that perfecting the leafy green is simply a matter
of nurture over nature. There’s no need to tweak the DNA or add
artificial chemicals, the company says, when you can create the ideal
environment to promote certain traits in the plant. In a conference room at the
paintball-arena-turned-growing-facility — where Aerofarms grows the
crops sold in Newark in three towers stacked two stories high with
plants — co-founder Marc Oshima pinched a few sprigs of watercress and
popped them into his mouth like an hors d’oeuvre. “At home, we eat this instead of popcorn,” the chief marketing officer said, going back for seconds. One of the main criticisms of
indoor farming is that without soil or sun, flavor suffers. Aerofarms’
fixation on taste may prove a competitive advantage as a bevy of competitors crop up around the country. “It’s a shame that today we take the
most highly nutritious category — leafy greens — and we supplement it
with a lot of really fatty foods like salad dressing,” Rosenberg said.
“Part of what we want to bring to society, and bring awareness of, is
these greens in and of themselves. They’re not just nutritious. They’re
all harbingers of taste.”
Alexander C. Kaufman/The Huffington Post
Two of Aerofarms’ growing towers.
Anyone
who’s heard a seller at a farmers market or country fair talk about
their crops should recognize the affection with which Rosenberg and
Oshima tout theirs. But they’re just as much tech executives as they are
farmers. Rosenberg started Aerofarms in 2004 after spending years
working to reduce water waste with the architect and environmentalist
William McDonough, a gig that made Rosenberg a regular in posh do-gooder circles like those at the World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland. Aerofarms purports to use 95 percent
less water than traditional farms, and says it gets 75 percent more
crops per square foot of growing space than traditional field systems. To achieve that, the company has had to think of itself as a technology company as much as a farming firm. “We’re spending big money on IT and
our IT systems,” Rosenberg said. “We’re really calling it the heartbeat
of the organization, in how it really touches on everything and pulls
all the different pieces of the company together.” Each of the three towers in the
Newark facility is equipped with a circuit board, where sensors collect
data and beam it back to the company’s servers. “We had several ‘aha moments’ when we
became Aerofarms — one of them was that, to be great on technology, we
needed to be great on data,” Rosenberg said. “For a while, the company
was selling farm equipment. But to be great on tech, you need good data.
To get uncorrupted data, we needed to be the farmer. To be great at farming, we needed to be a leader in the technology space, because the industry is so new.”
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